Saturday, 20 February 2010

A glimpse of Uganda - Bwindi Mburo

Bwindi and Mburo

In 2008, as part of my 60ties birthday celebration My European friends and I did a safari tour






















with the ultimate aim of seeing the Mountain Gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable forest.

The whole trip was four days long and we drove in two four wheel drives.

Bwindi is in the far west of Uganda on the border with the Republic of Congo. The whole trip is about 400 km one way. On the way west, we broke up the trip into two sections with one stop-over in Mburo,



with the night spent in the fantastic Mihingo Lodge.











And after doing some Safari travelling, watching the wildlife and pottering around on Lake Mburo for a few hours, we came to Bwindi and made ourselves comfortable in Buhoma lodge.







On the third day it was time to start the arduous climb up the hill through the jungle to see the gorillas.


A glimpse of Uganda - Mountain Gorillas

Impenetrable forest

The absolute highlight of this wonderful excursion was obviously visiting the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable forest.



Approaching Bwindi National Park, the impenetrable forest

Again, we were divided into two groups and the “oldies” got the slightly easier climb. Never mind that we had to climb for 5 hours – often on hands and knees – up the hill through a jungle which justifies its name at almost every step.

Early on, it still goes through some banana plantations and it’s just the ‘up’ which is a bit exhausting, but sooner or later we leave the human inhabited region and immerse ourselves in the jungle. Thankfully, the weather was our friend and there was no rain. But 25 degrees temperature and around 75% humidity still make it an almighty physical challenge.



On the way up, still standing


One of the initial problems was, that our guides refused to be somewhat specific about the length it would take to actually get to the gorillas. And it took some argument between me and the guide, before he provided some reasonably realistic estimations. That made the whole thing psychologically more tolerable.

We did not know, that the way down would be significantly less difficult. When you crawl up the hill there, the idea is always in your mind, that you have to crawl this all back down again. But to our welcome surprise that was not the case.

And at some stage, after about 4 hours of up hill battle, all of a sudden the command :stop, sit down, keep quiet.






And there they were, our distant relatives going about their own business and not giving much of a damn about the intruders.










A sight and experience never to be forgotten.

Tuesday, 22 September 2009

Green Point 23rd September, 2009

Today in the morning, shortly after the first daylight was showing up and I looked outside my bedroom window, I got a real fright.

The colour outside was very much that of a raging bushfire very near by. The noise of the storm and the trees swaying in the wind re-enforced that feeling.

Hopped out of the bed to have a look outside, not really knowing what I would find.

To my great relief – in relative terms – it was a gigantic dust-storm the likes I have never seen before in this part of my world.

As I am typing this a few hours later, I can form little dirt briquettes in my mouth from the dust.

It’s a bit like Kampala on steroids. In Kampala we are used to having this red dust in the air which is very pervasive and after a very short few hours of being there covers you and all that you carry with you in a fine red layer of dust.

My good old black leather pipe bag, which is commonly open on my table, very soon takes on a distinctive reddish hue. Not to speak about the laptop screen.

At the end of the first day I tend to look like I having gone through a full body henna treatment.

And the after effects become most evident usually after the first shower, back in J’Burg or Cape Town, on the white and fluffy hotel towel. It takes a few warm showers to get all that dust out of those impossible knucks and crannies of the ageing human body



This is, what the view from my house would commonly be


And this is my view of Brisbane waters on a sunny day

Today, we have a ‘sunny’ day and



This is what it looks like



The view towards Brisbane Waters on this day today

My little Merc is not always a shining example of a very clean car – I admit that. But look, what the last 12 hours have done



Driving to the shopping centre today in the morning to get the news papers, it was hard to look through this front window



And it’s only about 3 weeks ago that I spent 2 full days around the house, cleaning up, removing all the leaves, washing the decks, cleaning the roofs, and making everything look spotless (well….more or less). Even cleaned at least some of the windows!!!!

sometimes mother nature has a funny way of telling you to go to buggery

Wednesday, 31 December 2008

The year 2008 in letters and pictures

The year 2008 began as so many years have done over the last few decades, (yes, I know, with the 1st of January) but also with me writing some letters, sorting out some administrative stuff in my company, reading some books which have been waiting for some time to be picked up and planning the year ahead. Such planning usually involves a lot travel planning.

And here a tip for people who might have the idea of inviting me for some big family event or anniversary to foreign countries. This is the time of the year where you should alert me to such possibility, then I might be able to arrange my travel around such an invitation date. You might not need to go overboard with it like I sometimes do, inviting people 2 years ahead for exactly the same purpose – long term planning. But more about that later.

Since a significant part of my life for the last 25 years evolves around overseas travel for business and personal reasons, any chronological account is very likely to end up being one long travel report. And whilst this is not much different for 2008, having made 6 trips, 4 of them lasting for 6 weeks or more plus two short ones, I decided to introduce a somewhat auflockernde Structure by including some letters, which I wrote to friends, some articles which I picked up on the way and, of course, quite a few pictures.

The first few days of 2008 were quite leisurely and peaceful on the home front, which this letter shows


GPP 5th January, 2008

letter to a friend

… The lazy atmosphere of the first few days of the new year made me wander into Erina shopping centre and succumb to the temptation of buying a new electronic toy against the expressed wishes and clear advise to the contrary of my otherwise very trusted IT manager, Paul. I bought myself a little ASUS EeePC. Its main appeal really is the size and weight which compares very favourably against my trusted Toshiba lap top. I want to use it as a communication tool on trips. Paul thought it was premature to buy one now because they are said to bring one on the market with a bigger hard disc and RAM. But for the things I want to use it for, the available disc space is plenty and you can always complement it with a memo card and/or a USB memo stick.

It's Linux based and Paul warned me that the opening screen and layout would be quite different to Windows. Which is right. But I must say, it's quite intuitive and I was able to get it going, including connecting to the wireless web here in GPP without any need for Paul's assistance (first time in my life with a new computer) May be that was what he was afraid about!!! the joyful thing is that it is not only the machine which is tiny but also the peripherals are minute - just a little power plug with a thin cord, less than my fancy MP3 player. It is even all together small enough to fit into my over the shoulder bag sharing the space with my pipe bag! It's test will come during the next trip…


I am pleased to say that the little Asus EeePC worked out quite well and proved to be a useful tool for my travel. In particular if it is ‘married’ with a standard keyboard. And yes, my eyes are still good enough to allow me to read the things on the screen without resorting to reading glasses.

Unlike in most other years, our international clients decided that this sort of living lazily into the day and doing bugger all for the first 2 months of the year was not on in 2008 and hence they placed orders for completion right from day 1 (day 12 to be correct)



Oh yes, now I have to confess, that some of this annual re-count is documented in languages, other than English.

Green Point 15th January 2008

letter to a friend

……Those yeas are flying by like there is no yesterday, only tomorrows!

......Hier geht soweit alles seinen gewohnten Gang, wenn man mal von der etwas ungewoehnlichen Situation absieht, dass wir bereits an der ersten Studie des Jahres arbeiten und die zweite bereits fuer Ende des Monats angesagt ist. Das hat es in den letzten 20 Jahren selten mal gegeben.

Ueberhaupt war das letzte Jahr, insbesondere die 2. Haelfte, aussergewoehnlich busy, was zu einer Verdreifachung meines Umsatzes im Vergleich zum Vorjahr gefuehrt hat. Na ja, als Kleinunternehmer weiss ich, dass ich mich darueber nicht zu beklagen habe. Und weiss auch, das es im naechsten Jahr wieder genau anders herum sein kann. Ich habe manchmal das Gefuehl, dass wir kleinen Marktforschungs Krauter das YoYo Spielen erfunden haben!

Auf der Reisefront ist die Vorbereitung in vollem Schwunge. In knapp zwei Wochen geht es Richtung Mauritius. Mein Reiseonkel Barry hat mal wieder einen schoenen Cup gelandet. Er hat meine erhebliche Abneigung fuer einen 12 Stunden Flug mit dem Sonderangebot der ersten Klasse gekontert (zum cattle class price) So werde ich in unmaessig aufgeblaehtem Stil nach Mauritius fliegen, dort bei Herrn und Frau Moevenpick fuer drei Tage resorten und dann weiter nach J'Burg segeln (im Flieger)

In J'Burg bin ich mal wieder fuer drei Tage bevor es dann zum eigentlichen Ziel Kampala geht. Dort zwei Wochen. Auf dem Rueckweg werde ich noch einmal eine gute Woche in Cape Town Aufenthalt machen und dank meiner 6PC Freunde ist das Program dort schon zu etwa 110% gefuellt. Dann geht's noch mal nach Mauritius, diesmal fuer 7 Tage Faulenzen, bevor ich am 26.2. wieder in Sydney bin......


In this letter I alluded to some holiday type interlude in Cape Town and Mauritius. My assorted clients around the world. though, made sure that there were no excesses involved and most of those days I enjoyed a rented office with ocean view, which had some features of a hotel room or Hotel apartment (as is the case in my standard quarters in Cape Town.)

But the first trip was still a few days off. And it seemed to me that our beloved clients were not entirely used to working in a concise and precise way at this time of the year. Maybe the masses of Gluehwein, Absinth and Champagne over the silly season still showed some effect


20th of January, 2008

Green Point, on the sunny Saturday morning of the 20th of January, annus domini 2008

to my trusted office manager

I thought looking at my depleted bank accounts would be a depressing move.

It compares, however, immensely favourable with looking at or dealing with current clients and their output of labour of love/hate, mixed up with incompetence and a warped Gallic type of communication

Frustrating client number one:

They shall remain nameless

Against all signs to the contrary, they have not yet given the go ahead for the main survey. Hence we should stop recruiting doctors and today send an e-mail to the currently recruited ones, saying

Dear Dr……

Our client has just informed us that there will be some minor changes to the questionnaire to be made within the next couple of days. May we kindly ask you to delay your responding to the survey until we contact you again to give the 'green light' to access the site and complete the questionnaire.

We apologise for the interruption and thank you for your cooperation.

With kind regards
Jochen Holzrichter

Frustrating client number two:

I just received the survey material from …nameless…. for the new survey and they have achieved the nigh impossible and made the whole thing more cumbersome and unwieldy than it was ever before. They are certainly up for the Oscars in the category: most convoluted market research survey of the century.

You might as well clear the big table of anything and everything which is not vital for its use because we will need all the space we can muster to lay out the survey material!! (what a pleasant side effect says the cynic in me!)

They have also changed their time schedule which means we are starting on the 22nd January (Monday) as opposed to the 29th as indicated just a few days ago!!

My frustration stems from looking at only some of the material on-line for a short and terrifying moment.

I guess if I line up all my genes of Teutonic imprimatur in an orderly fashion I might be able to discover the unbelievable logic behind it all. Knowing those buggers, there has to be one, it just has a cunning ability to hide from my Australian view.

So on Monday (should I have recovered) you will experience a Teutonic Marktforscher to goose step into the office to get this gala monster organised.

Meanwhile I think I will retreat into a weekend cocoon wallpapered with salacious pornographic images, swamped with alcoholic beverages and filled with inhaleable nicotine in a vain attempt to take my mind off the horrors of life for a short while.

I guess being able to write the first half invoice about 10 days earlier than expected might compensate for something. I have yet to find out what and with what effect.

The caring and sharing person that I am, I will, at some stage over the weekend, put together a package with the survey material and send it down the hot copper wire……


5 days later, though, all bets were off and I moved my weighty oyster (which is what I usually refer to when speaking about my suitcase – more because of its clam shell construction rather than the brand) to Sydney airport to get on my Air Mauritius flight to this wonderful sugar island.

Going to Africa first time this year

Barry, my travel agent, had managed to score a first class seat for me between Sydney and Johannesburg (J’Burg) and return, so it was only the trip between J’Burg and Kampala that I was confined to cattle class, which for 5 hours is fine with me.

trip 1

25th January Sydney – Mauritius
29th January Mauritius – Johannesburg
1st February, Johannesburg – Kampala
12th February, Kampala – Cape Town
19th February, Cape Town Mauritius
25th February, Mauritius Sydney



Don't ask me why there is an imposing bust of comrad Lenin in a suburban park of Port Luis in Mauritius. But there were fresh cut flowers on it, he might have had some relos here.

For the first stop over (3 days) I had not really planned anything like holiday since we had just started a survey and there was plenty for me to do. So Moevenpick resort was not really of great holiday value to me, but offered a quite acceptable working environment.

Since the clientele in this establishment seemed to be largely recruited by Neckerman (or what was once Neckerman Reisen) Duesseldorf and Dueren were significantly over represented, compared to Durban or Dublin.

The pleasant upshot of that was, that they offered quite nice bread rolls for dinner and breakfast and cheese and cold meat were plentiful on the breakfast menu.



After 3 days I was whisked back to the airport for my flight to J’Burg.

This tends to be a short stop over destination for me, where I have my standard hotel in Sandton, one of the many suburbs of J’Burg (and an upper class one at that) The good thing really is, that my hotel is only a short walk away from the Nelson Mandela Plaza where there is a huge shopping centre as well as a big open space (Plaza) surrounded by lots of different restaurants. That gives you a good choice between Italian, Thai, Greek, African cuisine, and other culinary destinations. And since these types of shopping centres are often the nucleus of public life, they also incorporate a lot of the social activity which the good burgers of J’Burg might like to engage in. So it’s usually a lively atmosphere.



On the 1st of February it was time for me again to pack my bags and get to the airport for my trip to Kampala. Due to the fact that a new administrative company had taken over the airport, a few things were still a bit on the slow side, in particular as far as luggage handling etc is concerned. That delayed the flight a bit, but J’Burg airport is pleasant enough to spend a few hours in ‘airport mode’ there. And I still had to buy a few mobile phones for some of my boys in Kampala. So shopping was on the cards. It is also – before Kampala – the last opportunity for me to buy Mc Baren Mixture, my pipe tobacco. And of course a few gigantic blocks of Toblerone which go down a treat with my boys in Kampala (they never buy any chocolate, it’s a real luxury for them)

This time around my plans for Kampala were more focused on preparing my next visit and that of 8 of my overseas friends for my 60th birthday party. Mum had asked that we visit the grave of her son Geoffrey who died in 2004 in a motor cycle accident and is buried a fair way outside Kampala, resting under the watchful eyes of grandma,



the clan elder who is responsible – amongst other things – for the graves of the clan. And there were some administrative things to sort out. And last but not least, there was a very sick computer which needed a lot of TLC (tender loving care) to be de-bugged and equipped with new defence mechanisms against the ravages of the cyber world.

Hence I spent the first few days collecting some proposals for the 3-4 day safari in May and also tried to sort out the restaurant for our birthday dinner. And the Sydney Hotel



(yes such thing exists in Kampala) needed to be checked out as it was destined to serve as accommodation for my overseas visitors in May. It has the big advantage to be located just around the corner from Masaka Road (where our house is) and since it is an African hotel their prices are seriously below those which one would expect to pay in places like the Sheraton etc. And it provides, what a traveller needs, a decent bed, a small bathroom with toilette and shower and is very clean. And for that kind of service you pay just $25.00 the night, instead of $250.00 for a room in any of the international hotels.

I got myself three different quotes from 3 travel agents and decided for Rachel and her “Let’s go Safari” Her proposal came on time, at a reasonable price and with the kind of detail which one would like to see when making a booking like that for 10 people. A brief check of the various lodges which Rachel suggested, made me finally decide on Mihingo Lodge at Lake Mburo (1 night)





and Buhoma Lodge in Bwindi for 2 nights. Both choices proved to be excellent.





It was then that I became aware of the permit system which governs the visits to the Mountain Gorillas and I was just in time to snap up the last 10 permits in two groups which were available for the time I had in mind. Those permits are the most expensive single item in the whole 4 day trip at US$500.00 per person. About the same amount needs to be spent on 3 nights accommodation, 2 four wheel drives with driver for transport, all meals and any other charges applicable. And whilst US$950 might sound expensive for 4 days, it is more than worth it and offers a lifetime experience which all my guest and Moses and I enjoyed tremendously in late May.

For the visit in the bush at grandmas we packed some picnic lunch and it turned out to be a very pleasant daytrip into the middle of the bush, worlds removed from the huzzle and buzzle of Kampala.



I can’t talk with Grandma since she does not speak English. But her interaction with her daughter (Mum) and the boys as very lively and interesting to observe. Johnny played a trick on her by suggesting that I will stay over night with her in the village. She looked at me and asked: “what does he eat” to which Johnny answered truthfully with ….some cheese and bread, and for dinner he likes white wine…. Grandmas’ response was swift and clear: “Take him with you, we don’t have this ort of things”!



Grandma, though, likes the occasional beer. However, so that it does not look like beer, she tends to fill the beer bottle into a water bottle and drinks it from this less conspicuous looking container!

After 11 busy and happy days in Kampala I made my way to Cape Town. Checked in at the Ocean Tide in Sea Point. I even hired a car which I took over at the airport to drive myself to C’Town. The little car was then to be rested for a few days since my clients thought it to be fun to provide me with lots of work for those days. (see above)

But even the most serious clients can’t stop me from taking the occasional tour, whether it is down Chapman Drive to the Cape of Good Hope, the wine country or some of the surrounding areas around Table Mountain, Signal Hill etc.







These areas are the obvious attraction in C’Town apart from Waterfront, where you can indulge in shopping and wining and dining.

And then there was the little bar, not far from my apartment on the waterfront and with wonderful view of the Ocean, where I became a regular every night after dinner (which I made myself in the apartment) Got to know a few people there, sat outside in the little beer garden and enjoyed a nice glass of wine and a pipe.

That makes even working during holidays a bit more tolerable. However, all those wonderful suggestions which the 6PC members had made for my 7 day visit still have to wait for a next time, some time in the future, maybe in 2009, who knows.

On the 19th of February it was time again to pack the oyster into the car and drive myself to the airport for my flight to Mauritius, via J’Burg. Last opportunity for pipe tobacco duty free (and dirt cheap, compared to what I have to shell out in Sydney for a pack). Some 8 hours later I landed again in Port Luis



and this time took over a little tinny car which served as my transport for some excursions on the island.

Mauritius 21st February, 2008

letter to a friend

…..Yesterday when I responded to your e-mail, my sitting position was not really conducive to longer writings. I have to take the lap top into the lobby because the WiFi network does not work in the room. (how useful is that!) But at least it works in the lobby which is easier than carrying around a memo stick which then is not recognised by the computer under normal guest login but needs the administrator to log in. (as it happened in my first hotel here)

Funny thing was, when I was sitting there, receiving and sending e-mails, a mildly sleazy Brit set opposite making Skype calls to the UK speaking with some Insurance companies and ensured his partner on the phone with booming voice that he was calling from a ship in the middle of the Indian Ocean!! You would be surprised how much money can be shifted from one account to the other via Skype and from the middle of the Indian Ocean.

Arrived here on Tuesday night and suddenly realised that I had to drive my rented car some 60 km across the Island in the darkness of night. However, I made it remarkably well and only missed one turn off, which was easily corrected. The car is a tiny shoebox on wheels and I have yet to find out, who built it. I suspect the Koreans are responsible for it.

The Maritime Hotel could aptly be named the Maritime Museum, as the predominantly German guests have, at a rate of 90%, already reached pensioners age. At close to 60 I am spring chicken here. Well, all is relative.

The animateurs are regularly hunting me down in order to inform me about the wanders of the water world activities and are regularly disappointed when I tell them that I sit in my room all day working or take my own car and drive around the island. The latter I am yet to do.

I had to smile about your comment about mobile reception in Jenolan caves. No my dear, in the cave, you won’t have reception at all. They were not built with mobile communication in mind. But I would say, outside you might not have too much of a problem. Remember, the worldly metropolis of Lithgow is not very far…….


After a few days work and a few days of excursions and exploration of Mauritius I arrived back in Sydney and ultimately Green Point on the 20th of February.